Empty trails. Crisp mountain air. Low autumn light hitting sheer rock.
When autumn arrives in Northern Italy, life between Paganella and the Brenta Dolomites retreats to its essentials. The summer crowds fade, leaving quiet forest paths, rustic mountain huts, and long views across cold alpine valleys.
It is the season to walk through turning beech woods, taste fresh wine in the valley cellars, and experience the quiet, honest rhythm of the Alps.
In autumn, with the mountains all to yourselves, you can enjoy your passions and discover new pleasures. A glass of Teroldego wine, a walk amid the sounds of the forest, a journey into the past among the vaults of the villages or in the castles.
This is one of the favourite times of year for the locals: few people on the trails and the last few days of sunshine to stock up on vitamin D before the snow arrives. So have your waterproofs, shoes and equipment ready.
Autumn in the village squares means tasting new wines and local food. It is the time for harvest festivals, cold evenings, and the first cups of warm mulled wine.
You don’t have to pack every hour of the day here. Leave space to just sit, listen to the trees, and watch the clouds move across the valley. In autumn, only the fading light and the mountain air dictate the rhythm.
Exploring by car is easy in autumn, as many parking lots become free of charge.
Public transport timetables adjust to local school hours, so keep that in mind when planning your day.
In autumn, opening hours change. Before you lace up your hiking boots, check the schedules for restaurants and mountain huts and book ahead.
Ask if they have tortel di patate. It’s what we eat when the mountain air turns sharp. Freshly grated raw potatoes, fried and paired with cold cuts, cheese, and greens from the garden. A meal meant to be shared together, for as long as there is hunger.
You can head up the Paganella mountain on weekends throughout October. In Molveno, lifts are open every day until early November. Check the opening dates and times.
Just a few lit windows and less going on. Pack a book or a deck of cards, and leave the rest to the quiet of the mountain towns.
Mountain weather changes fast. Boots on your feet, layers of clothing, and one last look at the forecast before you head out.
Staying on marked trails is the simplest way to respect the forest, the pastures, the wildlife, and those who take care of them. Check our mountain etiquette guide to learn how to move through the mountains without leaving a trace.
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