The harvest begins before the light touches the vines. Decisions are made looking at the dawn sky: before seven, tractors, crates, and shears are prepped. Half an hour later, the team is already among the leaves. The crisp September air soon loses its chill, and experience dictates just one rule: pick by hand, select every bunch, and take them straight into cold storage, to be processed at low temperatures the next day.
At Maso Klinger, the Pilati family has been harvesting for a century. The vines sit at an altitude of five hundred meters, climbing the very pergolas their grandfather planted back in 1925. Until 2018, the harvest was sent to the cooperative winery, before Enzo, Umberto, and Lorena decided to craft their own wine.